GIRL [to front desk]: I think you're out of milk.
He went off to pick up some more from storage. She was tall with a light dusting of English freckles and had on a bathing suit under her dress.
ME: That was me that used all of it
GIRL: [turns to me] It was you.
ME: Yeah, I knew you were coming. I actually had a bit left but just poured the rest out in the alley.
GIRL: [squints in mock disapproval] So wasteful.
If you're worried about traveling alone, that's how easy it is to meet people in a hostel.
Laetitia and I walked down the Split promenade for one final time to find our boat. Laetitia knew where it was and in my infinite wisdom, I took us in a giant circle to get there.
On the catamaran I bought an overpriced espresso and sparkling water. We were headed to the island of Hvar about an hour away by sea. I caught up on podcasts while mounted TVs looped ads with quick cuts of drones exploring the islands and hot people at bars doing shots.
Drinking culture seems like a lot of fun. I really wish I enjoyed it as much as other people. I tried it in my early twenties but that's just because I thought that's what cool people did. It was never for me. My idea of a party now is a great meal followed by going to sleep at a reasonable hour. #Extreme
There were four Americans on the boat wearing sailing hats that read "Captain" which complemented their multicolored nightclub bracelets. They spent the duration of the ride taking selfies and using Snapchat filters, but I can't judge. I probably would have done the same at their age. The difference of travel through the decades of your life.
We docked in to Hvar and it was perfect. A small town built in to the horseshoe of the bay with a fortress on a hill looking down at the port.
The dockside has several ice cream stands and cafes. I appreciate the Croatian models they hire as hostess to lure in unsuspecting sailors toward their jagged rocks of overpriced menus.
For lunch, we went to a restaurant highly recommended by our hostelkeeper, Reno, called Mirazola. It was off the normal cafe path and up some stairs which added to its non tourist legitimacy. We sat on the terrace and enjoyed Octopus salad, gnocchi with prawns, and grilled calamari (now my favorite way to eat it).
At lunch as I sipped white wine I tried to explain to Laetitia what a "basic bitch" is and she tried to explain the Parisian equivalent. Some of my French was coming back by hanging out with her. Just prepping for the day when I retire in France.
One of my favorite restaurant moments was watching four Germans getting super excited to see three Koreans walk into the restaurant. "Hey, you're here!" They had presumably crossed paths before in another city so they high fived and took a few selfies together grateful to see their travel friends.
After lunch we walked up to the fortress on the hill and found a perfect bench that overlooked the port to sit on for about 30 minutes. This is probably my favorite part about coming to Europe. The amount of trees and bench sitting that I do. I rarely do this in LA because of our lack of a park system and lack of benches in town. When I run for the next presidential election though, my platform is going to be all about more trees and benches in America. I'll let my then wife handle all of the other stuff.
For evening I dressed up in what I call my "backpacker's best" and we went out for some champagne and joked about apartment swapping for a month. I would take her studio in Paris and she would take mine in downtown LA. That would be my third time living in Paris and a whole month of eating nothing but gluten. Sounds great.
It was too cold to stay out and Laetitia already had on my one sweater, so we walked back through the plaza past the band that was playing Creedence Clearwater Revival.